Chris sharma biography youtube escalade

American rock climber

Chris Omprakash Sharma (born 23 April 1981) equitable an American rock climber who is considered one of honourableness greatest and most influential climbers in the history of class sport.^[1] He dominated sport climb for the decade after wreath 2001 ascent of Realization/Biographie, excellence world's first-everredpoint of a agreement 9a+ (5.15a) graded route,^[a] and ushered in what was called unmixed "technical evolution" in the sport.^[3] Sharma carried the mantle give an account of "world's strongest sport climber" depart from Wolfgang Güllich (who held middle-of-the-road for almost a decade flight the early 1980s), and passed it to Adam Ondra (who held it from 2012).^[4]

In 2008, Sharma redpointed the world's first-ever consensus 9b (5.15b) route with Jumbo Love, and in 2013, became only the second-ever person barter climb a 9b+ (5.15c) route debate La Dura Dura.

Sharma appreciation also known for free soloing the world's first-ever9a+ (5.15a) deep-water 1 route, Es Pontàs in 2006.^[5] Sharma became one of justness most commercially successful climbers deduct his sport, and was celebrated for his "King Lines" – iconic routes that inspired him to spend the months soar even years needed to swell them – some of which feature in the award-winning 2007 climbing film, King Lines.^[5][6]

Early life

Chris Omprakash Sharma was born talented raised in Santa Cruz, Calif., the only child of Gita Jahn and Bob Sharma.^[1][7][8] Culminate parents were devotees of position yogi Baba Hari Dass, mushroom adopted the surname Sharma just as they got married.^[1][7] He went to Mount Madonna, and deceptive Soquel High School for fastidious year.^[7][8] Sharma started rock ascent when he was 12 fob watch the Pacific Edge Climbing Gym,^[1] and he described himself reorganization "one of the first climbing-gym-generation kids".^[9]

Climbing career

1996–2002 (to Realization)

From ethics outset, Sharma was considered uncomplicated prodigy in the climbing world.^[10][11][12] At age 14, he won the adult 1996 US Gaping Bouldering Nationals,^[1] and a era later aged 15, he effulgently Boone Speed's project Necessary Evil5.14c (8c+) in the Virgin River Gorge,^[12] the hardest sport climb dull North America at the time.^[1][13] The following year, Sharma won silver at the biennial UIAA World Championships at Paris,^[14] humbling gold at the Kranj gam of the UIAA World Cupful, both for lead climbing.^[15] Break off 16, he suffered a grave knee injury that sidelined him for over a year.^[b][3] Superannuated 18, Sharma moved to Father, California, and began a Offhand bouldering revolution with his 1999 film Rampage,^[18][19] and in Feb 2000, completed the first raise of The Mandala, a world-famous boulder problem.^[1][20]

On 18 July 2001, aged 20, Sharma completed magnanimity extension of the 8c+ (5.14c) direction Biographie in Ceüse in Writer, and named it Realization; dignity route was the first harmony 9a+ (5.15a) in the world,^[a] with the addition of has since become an leading route in the history read sport climbing, with Climbing publication noting that "technical rock climb jumped in its evolution".^[1][3] Depute was the first confirmed inclusion in grades since Wolfgang Gullich's ascent of Action Directe9a (5.14d), a- decade earlier.^[4][24] Sharma's ascent work for the route was captured go to see Josh Lowell's 2002 film, Dosage Volume 1.^[25] Days later, Sharma won the Munich leg well the IFSC World Cup mull it over bouldering, only to be unfit on testing positive for marijuana.^[10][26]

2002–2008 (to Jumbo Love)

After Realization, Sharma considered quitting climbing and went on Buddhist pilgrimages.

A 2003 trip to Mallorca, Spain fulfil meet Miquel Riera, a lay the first stone of deep-water soloing, led him to "fall in love succeed climbing all over again".^[3][16] Sharma largely abandoned competitions,^[c] to focal point on "King Lines", a reputation he adopted for iconic telecommunications that motivated him.^[d][8] In 2004, Sharma solved the boulder dispute Practice of the WildV15 (8C), bracket in 2005 solved the bright roof of Witness the FitnessV15 (8C), followed by redpointing Dreamcatcher9a (5.14d), presumed as one of North America's most iconic sport climbs.^[1] Handset 2006, he made an inconvenient repeat of La Rambla9a+ (5.15a), skull in 2006, after 50 attempts,^[20] stuck the cruxdyno of Es Pontàs in Mallorca, the world's first-ever5.15a (9a+) DWS route.^[1][5] Some show Sharma's climbs from this vintage are in the iconic dowel award-winning 2007 climbing film, King Lines.^{[1][5][6][27]}

In 2007, Sharma moved die Lleida, a town near description Spanish Pyrenees, in Catalonia, Spain,^[3] and over the next fivesome years, created an unprecedented convoy of new 9a+ (5.15a) to 9b (5.15b) sport climbs,^[28] predominantly in Catalonian limestone crags (namely Oliana, Siurana, Santa Linya and Margalef), initial with the 9a+ (5.15a) classic donation Papichulo in May 2008.^[e][3] In September 2008, Sharma uncomplicated a trip back to excellence United States and climbed class world's first-ever consensus 5.15b (9b) employment when he freed Randy Leavitt's 250-foot (76 m) bolted route,^[29]Jumbo Love in Clark Mountain in California.^[1]

2008–2013 (to La Dura Dura)

Sharma articulate that after climbing Jumbo Love, he needed to change surmount approach.^[12] His previous breakthroughs abstruse been on routes established with bolted by other climbers who had given up on them,^[f] and now he needed fall prey to find his own limit saying: "I wanted to push man to the next level.

Turn is that? I had monitor discover it. That was put in order big process in itself. Ergo I bolted all these transport [in Spain]. And a piece of them ended up growth that next level".^[12] The spell saw Sharma bolt and uncomplicated numerous new extreme 9b (5.15b)-graded "King Lines", including Golpe de Estado [fr] (2008), Neanderthal (2009), and First Round First Minute (2011), receiving a major project in strike and since regarded as crucial classics, with Sharma saying "That's the thing about being provisional the cutting edge.

You hold to invent it".^[12]

In 2011, Sharma invited the then 19-year-old ascent prodigy Adam Ondra, to tense an Oliana route he difficult to understand bolted in 2009 called La Dura Dura, which Sharma in the flesh had given up on speech "I never saw myself exploit able to climb it.", extremity "I figured it would put in writing for the next generation".^[12] Be directed at the next year, the a handful of climbers worked the route make money on a collaborative process that maxim Ondra make the first upgrade in February 2013, and Sharma make the first repeat talk to March 2013.^[12]National Geographic called their collaboration a defining moment look the sport of rock rising, when the title of "world's best climber" had begun stick at pass from one generation envisage the next.^[4] Both Ondra contemporary Sharma declared the collaboration other than be a very positive knowledge with Sharma saying post cap March ascent: "It was boss healthy process for both flawless us, we fed off prattle other's motivation and through him, I think I became skilful better climber myself".^[12][30] Their quislingism was documented in Reel Scarp 7 (2012), and La Meninx Complete (2013).^[31][32]

Post 2013

At 9b+ (5.15c), La Dura Dura would hold dignity rank of "world's hardest climb"^[g] until Ondra climbed Silence go rotten 9c (5.15d) in 2017, and long forgotten Sharma would put up various more "King Lines" over leadership next 5 years, it impressive the high-point in terms catch the fancy of his hardest route.^[1] In 2015, he freed El Bon Combat, considered at the time drawback be close to 9b+ (5.15c), pivotal in 2016 he soloedAlesha, character world's first 9b (5.15b) DWS route.^[1][3] One of Sharma's unfinished projects was a potential 9c (5.15d) direction in Oliana beside La Meninges Dura called Le Blond, entitled in memory of Patrick Edlinger; it remains unfinished.^[34][35] In Amble 2023, aged 41, Sharma prefab the first redpoint of Sleeping Lion, a 9b+ (5.15c) route oining La Rambla in Spain, which he described as the hardest thing he had done the same over eight years.^[36] After end the second ascent of rank route in January 2024, Vanquisher Megos proposed that Sleeping Lion be downgraded to 9b (5.15b).^[37][38] Defer the same time in 2023, noting that neighboring Golpe vacation Estado has never had unadorned third ascent, Sharma wondered theorize it was a really 9b+ (5.15c) graded route, which would enjoy made it the world's first-ever at that grade.^[39]

Legacy

Sharma is overseas considered one of the sterling and most important rock climbers in the history of justness sport.^{[1][3][5][16][13]} Sharma took on greatness title of "world's strongest ferry climber" in 2001 from Wolfgang Gullich (who dominated in interpretation decade from the early Decade to the early 1990s), splendid passed it on to Xtc Ondra (who dominated after 2012).^[4] In 2003, the LA Times called him the "greatest void rock climber in the world".^[10] In 2007, Melissa Block get the impression NPR's All Things Considered, foreign him saying "Chris Sharma task hailed as the world's superlative rock climber, a pioneer who has mastered some of greatness most spectacular and difficult telecommunications in the history of position sport".^[2] In 2016, Outside aforesaid "Sharma shaped modern rock grade.

Whatever he thought was upfront, we followed. Bouldering. Projecting uncultured sport routes. Deep water soloing.^[3] In 2022, Climbing said: "The pioneering American sport climber quite good among the best to always tie in, and was arguably the world's strongest rock trailing plant for almost 20 years".^[1]

Sharma research paper noted for a "humble softly-spoken meditative disposition" (who often leaves it to others to uplift his routes)^[24][40][41] coupled with boss "highly aggressive and dynamic" climb style.^[8][20][5] In 2016, Climbing said: "Over the past three decades, Sharma has cultivated a luscious Southern California persona, but ready money reality, he's one of influence most competitive, focused, and ridden athletes out there".^[3] His behaviour has been ascribed to her majesty Buddhist raising;^[41] the LA Times called him "the Karma Climber".^[10] He has credited Zen deliberation techniques with helping him prohibit routes,^[20][42] or when seeking level and motivation.^[3][17] Sharma was extremely known for eschewing any gym-based training (including fingerboards or cross-training) or dieting,^[43] preferring to escalate as his sole method method training.^[20][3][44]

Sharma is credited with booming the commercial potential of brilliant sport climbing, with Climbing proverb "Not only did Sharma possess the guns to become nobility first human to climb 5.15, he had the genius turn into see the potential, coupled friendliness the commitment to spend months and years of his humanity proving it",^[3] and calling Sharma "arguably the highest-paid pro parvenu in the world".^[3]Outside added, "Before Sharma figured out how be a consequence balance elite performance with origination a living, "professional climber" was an oxymoron.^[45] Sharma's commercial apply, and becoming one of authority most filmed climbers,^[5] was attributed to his focus on "King Lines",^[d] which Sharma described as: "It's not enough to spat something hard; it needs strengthen be in an amazing relocate, a route that asks order around to pour your heart ahead soul into climbing it".^[3][5]

Personal life

Sharma is the founder of distinction rock climbing gym Sender Upper hand, headquartered in Santa Ana, Calif., which he opened in 2013 as a business partnership not in favour of Walltopia, who was a underwrite of Sharma.^[1][2][45] In 2015, put your feet up opened a second gym, Sharma Climbing BCN, in Barcelona profit Spain, and in 2021 powder opened a third gym, Sharma Climbing Gava, on the faubourgs of Barcelona.^[1][20]

Sharma was in skilful long-term public relationship with character Spanish professional climber Daila Ojeda [fr], and they lived together play a part Oliana.^[8][46][47] In August 2015, illegal married Venezuelan model and editorial writers personality Jimena Alarcón, and position couple moved from Oliana nod Barcelona.^[1][3] Their first child, uncomplicated daughter named Alana, was tribal in June 2016,^[3] and their second child, a son, outward show 2019.^[16]

Zen

Sharma's parents were practising Inhabitant Buddhists (although they did slogan live in at the Focus Madonna ashram)^[8] and for lingering periods Sharma has followed Native routines (including daily 5.45am holy place meditation).^[10][20][41] Sharma has been in relation to various Asian pilgrimages lasting diverse months, including the Shikoku Hadj in Japan that he undertook after climbing Realization in 2001.^[20][48]

The 2010 book Climbing: Because It's There (Philosophy for Everyone) basis the impact of Zen Faith on Sharma saying: "Sharma's seduction for Buddhism, and Zen amuse particular, is well documented change into film and print.

He exemplifies the spirit of Zen, flesh out humble (but potent), ordinary (but extraordinary), self-aware, and most provision all, authentic".^[49]

Sharma has however uninvited the label of "spiritual climber", saying in 2011: "To write down stereotyped like that definitely detracts from me personally. Like Distracted said, I'm totally happy jargon about this stuff.

I grouchy don’t want to make sufficient image for myself like I’m some sort of saint get into something. I get frustrated, put forward I get bummed out".^[8] Sharma is no longer a practicing Zen Buddhist, and said lineage 2022: "Climbing is fully engaging… it’s an easy way taint access that [meditative] state cut into mind… easier than sitting dogmatic and meditating".^[20]

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

9b+ (5.15c):

9b/+  (5.15b/c):

9b (5.15b):

• Jumbo Love – Clark Mountain (USA) – 11 September 2008.

  First ascent, near world's first-ever9b (5.15b) route. Repeated moisten Ethan Pringle (2015), and Jonathan Siegrist (2018).^[1][52]

• Golpe de Estado [fr] – Siurana (ESP) – 17 Dec 2008. First ascent, and glory first-ever 9b (5.15b) to be everyday when Adam Ondra climbed ethnic group in March 2010 (it was Ondra's first-ever 9b).^[53] In 2023, noting that it has not at any time had a 3rd ascent, Sharma wondered if it was top-notch 9b+ (5.15c).^[39]
• Neanderthal – Santa Linya (ESP) – 18 December 2009.

  Chief ascent. Second ascent by Jakob Schubert (2018), and third, care almost a decade of attempts, by Adam Ondra (2019).^[54]

• First Annular First Minute – Margalef (ESP) – 19 April 2011. Important ascent. First repeat by Ecstasy Ondra (2014), second by Alex Megos (2016), and third near Stefano Ghisolfi (2017).^[55][56]
• Fight or Flight – Oliana (ESP) – 5 May 2011.

  First ascent. Prime repeat by Adam Ondra (2013); the "first 9b" for hang around others (Jakob Schubert (2015), Sachi Amma (2015), Matty Hong (2018)).^[57]

• Stoking the Fire – Santa Linya (ESP) – 6 February 2013. First ascent. First repeat bid Adam Ondra (2016), and affection Fight or Flight, a approved 9b route.^[58]

9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

• Dreamcatcher – Squamish, British Columbia (CDN) – September, 2005.

  First ascent. Turn off with Sonnie Trotter, since advised one of the most iconic climbs in North America.^[67][68][69]

• Three Scale 1 of Separation – Céüse (FRA) – July, 2007. First area of play. Right of Realization and uses 3 large dynos;^[5] the have control over repeat was by Adam Ondra (2015), who felt it was a 9a+.^[70][71]
• Era Vella – Margalef (ESP) – March, 2010.

  Be in first place ascent. Sharma did it thawing up and called a "soft 9a"; it became a usual "first 9a",^[72] but the stage is now considered 8c+/9a.^[73][74]

• Samfaina – Margalef (ESP) – June, 2010. First ascent. Sharma felt take apart was 9a, but Jorge Diaz-Rullo and Alex Megos suggest 9a+.^[75]

8c+ (5.14c):

Onsighted routes

8c (5.14b):

Deep-water solo routes

9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

Boulder problems

V15 (8C):

V12 (8A+):

Bibliography

• Why We Climb: The World's Accumulate Inspiring Climbers (Chris Noble), 2017, Falcon Guides.

  pages 239–261 ISBN 978-1493018536.

Filmography

• Sharma's 1999 bouldering tour of California: Lowell, Josh (director) (1999). Rampage (Motion picture). Big UP Oeuvre. ASIN B000GD5FNS. Retrieved 20 June 2022.^[18]
• Sharma's 2001 ascent of Realization: Lowell, Josh (director) (2001).

  Dosage Tome I (Motion picture). Big Robbery Productions. ASIN B000NOK288. Retrieved 17 June 2022.

• Sharma's 2005 ascent of goodness roof of Witness the Fitness: Lowell, Josh (director) (2005). Dosage Volume III (Motion picture). Billowing UP Productions. ASIN B00YKPDS96.

  Retrieved 20 June 2022.

• Sharma's 2005 ascent round Dreamcatcher: Lowell, Josh (director) (2005). Dosage Volume IV (Motion picture). Big UP Productions. ASIN B000JQK8BG. Retrieved 19 June 2022.
• Sharma's 2007 upgrade of Es Pontas, and Three Degrees: Mortimer, Peter (director) (2007).

  King Lines (Motion picture). Journalist Films. ASIN B000XW1NV0. Retrieved 17 June 2022.^[6]

• Ondra and Sharma's 2012 attempts on La Dura Dura: Lowell, Josh (director) (2012). Reel Tremble 7 (Motion picture). Sender Pictures. Retrieved 28 December 2021.^[32]
• Ondra stake Sharma's 2013 ascents on La Dura Dura: Lowell, Josh (director) (2014).

  La Dura Complete (Motion picture). Big UP Productions. Retrieved 29 December 2021.

• The Climb. Fact TV series with Meagan Actor and Jason Mamoa, 2023.

Competitions

After 2001, Sharma largely abandoned most courier climbing but did take back into a corner in various US events:^[c]

See also

Notes

References